• We are on a septic system and the tank has been pumped but our toilet still does not flush well, and sometimes it backs up. Why?
  
• Why is water leaking down the pipes that connect under the sink to my faucets? It is causing mold.
• What causes noisy pipes, and what can I do about it?

• My toilet keeps sweating and the dripping water is ruining the floor. What can I do?
  
• My toilet seems to have a leak but I can't find it. A few minutes after the tank fills, the water goes down a few inches and it has to fill up again.
  
• How do I replace my toilet?
  

First, check that the soil stack on the roof for that toilet is not plugged. It must be unobstructed to permit the toilet to function correctly. If in doubt, take a hose on the roof (and take all safety precautions), put it down the stack, and run water forcefully for several minutes. If water backs up to the top of the pipe, you will need to snake out the obstruction. And of course, check that lines from the toilet to the septic tank are not obstructed. Another problem on older toilets is that the holes just under the rim become plugged by the minerals in hard water, which will also cause the toilet to function below par. If these holes appear plugged, you can try cleaning with a wire brush.

Why is water leaking down the pipes that connect under the sink to my faucets? It is causing mold.

You might get lucky and solve the problem just by tightening the fittings to the faucet with a basin wrench, which is usually the only tool that can reach up there. If not, replace the connections with braided stainless flex tubing. Once the leak is history, treat the mold with a strong bleach solution (using gloves, eye protection, and ventilation, of course). Then dry out the cabinet. If the wood is rotted, you may have to patch the bottom with plywood or replace the whole cabinet.

What causes noisy pipes, and what can I do about it?

Noisy pipes can be caused by several factors. Let's start with what is commonly known as water hammer. Water rushing through the pipe and out the faucet moves with speed and force. When you shut off the faucet, the water flow is brought to an abrupt halt. But that energy has to go somewhere. So normally in the wall behind each hot and cold faucet is an air chamber in the pipe. It used to be about 10 inches of pipe soldered vertically. Then when the rushing water was stopped it would push up that vertical pipe where it would hit a cushion of air in the pipe. And that would prevent the water force from causing the pipes to rattle, or hammer. Now there are commercial air cushions that are attached to the pipe in the same place and do the same job.

Hammering can develop because over years the air in that little vertical riser is lost, and thus the cushioning effect is lost. You can often correct this by shutting off the main water, opening all faucets and then draining the whole house from the lowest faucet. When you restore water, air will be again pushed into the risers designed to prevent water hammer.

Another cause of plumbing noise is a loose pipe under the house. The flushed water moves rapidly and in large volume and can cause a pipe to sway, setting up a rattling effect. Drain pipes are usually suspended from the floor joists under the house and a little stabilization may be all that is needed. By crawling under the house with a flashlight while someone flushes the toilet, you should be able to find the source by listening and looking.

Whistling or squealing in pipes is often caused by a worn out washer in a faucet or valve. A common source of this squealing is in the valves that connect to the washing machine. If you notice the squealing sound comes when the washer is working, you have an easy solution. First, shut off the valve and check the washers in the hose. Replace if they look worn or cracked. If that isn't it, shut off the house water and repair the faucet. One of the faucet's washers is likely worn or the valve seat is worn, causing water to be forced through a smaller opening and setting up the noise.

Another source of squealing, particularly when it seems to resonate through the whole house, can be either the main shut off valve for the house or the water pressure regulator. For the main shut off, turn off the water at the street valve first and then replace or repair the main house valve. If that isn't it and you have a pressure reducer on your incoming cold water line, it may be in the reducer's manifold.

Yet another noise problem can come from the toilet. If, after flushing, you hear a banging or rattling at the end of the fill cycle, then it is likely that the ballcock assembly, which controls the fill process, is worn. Depending on the style and how new it is, you might be able to repair it. Otherwise, replace it with a better one.

My toilet keeps sweating and the dripping water is ruining the floor. What can I do?

The water on the toilet tank is actually condensation, caused by cold water chilling the tank, which in turn draws moisture from the warm bathroom air. To stop this, purchase a kit available at a good home improvement or hardware store that allows you to mix a small amount of warm water with that going into the toilet tank. Problem solved.

My toilet seems to have a leak but I can't find it. A few minutes after the tank fills, the water goes down a few inches and it has to fill up again.

There are two things to check. First, check that the stopper at the bottom is in good condition. If in doubt, change it, which is easily done. Also check that the chain from the float to the stopper is not hanging down in the drain under the stopper. If all those are okay, check that the small hose that fits in the overflow pipe, which fills the tank, is not sticking down in the water once the tank is full. If it is, it can siphon water back out. If this problem exists, cut the hose shorter and/or bend the float arm down so a little less water goes in the tank. Make sure you keep the refill hose clipped to the overflow spout so it won't work loose and spray everywhere.

How do I replace my toilet?

There are one-piece and two-piece toilets. One-piece toilets are set as a unit. Two-piece toilets consist of a bowl and a tank. Setting both pieces as one unit can be difficult and burdensome. I recommend installing the bowl first, then the tank. The fitting that connects the toilet to the waste pipe is called the closet flange. If your home is currently being built, this piece is probably already roughed-in. To install a closet flange, dry fit it into the waste pipe so it sets level on the floor. Glue it into place so the slots will line up with the toilet bolt holes. Position the closet bolts in their slots. Turn the toilet upside down and fit a wax ring gasket onto the toilet's outlet (also called the horn). Set the toilet over the bolts and onto the flange. An easy way to seat the ring is to literally sit on the toilet and rock it a bit. Then put a level on the rim of the bowl and shim the base if needed. Snug (do not tighten too much) the nuts and washers onto the closet bolts and again check the bowl for level. Attach the tank bolts and nuts to the bowl (with the nuts outside so they don't rust). Hook up the water line, fill the tank, and adjust the float as needed. Finally, caulk around the base.