|
|
|
Maintenance Tips
Click one of the links below to skip to the maintenance tips for that topic.
|
Air to Air Exchangers
|
|
Routine maintenance involves replacing or cleaning the filters if so
equipped, and keeping the outside air intake free of debris.
After years of service the exchanger will become crusted with
grease and dirt that collects during condensation. Removing
this accumulation will probably take solvents or degreasers
and require opening up the cabinet and compartments.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Condensers
|
|
The coil is usually made of copper tubing with aluminum fins, but some
manufacturers use aluminum tubing. Its purpose is to transfer
heat as rapidly as possible. Pressure inside the coil can exceed
400 psi., during extremely warm weather conditions. The cleaner
it is kept, the better it transfers heat. Rinsing with a garden
hose occasionally when the unit is not running will help keep
it operating efficiently. After many years of use it may be
necessary to put special chemicals on to clean it.
The condenser fan moves air across the coil to increase the transfer of
heat. It is critical to the system. Obstructing the flow of air will not
only reduce efficiency but can lead to compressor failure. Keep debris and
objects away from the coil and fan to allow maximum air flow. Some condenser
fan motors have sealed bearings, others need lubrication. Damage to the fan
can occur if removed improperly. Have a qualified serviceman handle the
lubricating if needed.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Electric Furnaces
|
|
Routine maintenance includes monthly replacing the air filter or washing
the electronic air cleaner grids during constant use, and cleaning
the humidifier. Humidifiers can be of the steam generating type,
which will be line voltage powered, and should be shut off before
servicing. Deadly high voltage conditions exist inside
the cabinet; leave control servicing to a qualified technician.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Electronic Air Cleaners
|
|
Electronic air cleaners will usually operate at 95% efficiency, allowing
little or no dust to pass through. The dirtier they get, the
lower the effectiveness, so clean grids are a must. Before
removing the screens and grids for cleaning, it is imperative
to shut the power off and wait a few seconds to allow the
grids to lose the static charge. They are dishwasher safe
as long as they fit inside. If not, sloshing them around in
a tub of hot soapy water will loosen dirt that can be blasted
off with a garden hose.
Extreme caution must be taken when handling to protect the grids and
the person handling them. The plates are very sharp, and can
cut like razor blades. The fine wires stretched across the
grids are delicate and crucial to proper function. Proper
spacing between the grids is important. Do not bend or distort
them.
If the grids are not completely dry when installing them, do not
turn the power back on; damage to the power pack can occur
as the water will short the grids out. If in doubt about the
dryness, leave the power switch off for a day or two; the
air flow will take care of any residual water. Arrows on the
grids will display the correct direction for air flow. Improper
installation will render them useless. If the air cleaner
was installed correctly in the return air duct by the original
HVAC mechanic, air flow will be going from the duct toward
the appliance. The arrows should do the same.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Gas Furnaces
|
|
Routine maintenance includes: monthly filter replacement or washing
the electronic air cleaner grids when in constant use, and cleaning
the humidifier if so equipped. A properly functioning gas burner
will not need cleaning. Black soot is evidence of an incorrect
air mixture or other malfunction, and should be checked by a
qualified serviceman.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Humidifiers
|
|
Furnace mounted units can be by-pass, steam, mist, wick, and powered.
Some mount in the ductwork while others are attached to the
plenums on the furnace. Whatever the model, mineral deposits
from the water will reduce the effectiveness of the humidifier.
Be sure to turn the water and humidistat off before servicing.
Special chemicals can be used to clean mineral deposits, but one of
the safest is vinegar. A 50% mixture of vinegar and water
will usually dissolve or help clean away deposits. If the
humidifier has a drum with a belt, replacement of the belt
at the beginning of the heating season can be the easiest
fix if the water has a high mineral content. If the humidifier
has screens or is the wick type, some corrosion can occur
as well as build up.
Heat pumps and electric furnaces usually have steam humidifiers
to increase output. They are line voltage powered and
must be unplugged or disconnected before servicing to avoid
injury. With the exception of some mist type humidifiers,
all have a reservoir. Stagnant water sitting in the reservoir
during the off season can be a breeding ground for bacteria.
Turn the water off and clean the humidifier if possible when
heating season has ended.
Other than mineral deposits, the most common problem is sediment
in the water supply. The float inlet valve has a tiny hole
that easily clogs. The float is usually made of plastic, and
if cracked will fill with water and sink. The valve will be
stuck open and the reservoir will overflow. Use caution when
scraping deposits off the float. If the deposits cannot be
removed, replace the float or it will sink and cause an overflow.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Oil Furnaces
|
|
Routine maintenance includes monthly filter replacement or washing
the electronic air cleaner grids when in constant use, cleaning
the humidifier if so equipped, and an annual tune up of the
burner.
An oil burner tune up includes a nozzle and filter replacement, heat
exchanger and smoke pipe cleaning, and a fuel to air mixture
adjustment. Since the mixture adjustment requires the use
of special instruments to meet federal standards, it is best
left to a professional to obtain peak efficiency.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Room Air Conditioners
|
|
Not obvious is the fact that they need maintenance routinely, just like
any other machine. The filter, usually located behind the front
grill, needs to be washed. The condenser coil at the back of
the unit can accumulate a lot of debris, and might require a
special chemical bath. All air conditioning systems, large or
small, need good air flow across the evaporator coil and the
condenser coil. Efficiency and performance drop rapidly as air
flow decreases. Lose enough air flow and the unit will burn
out. Rodents can nest inside when not in use, and can foul up
the unit in many ways. Wasps and hornets, as well as the honey
bee find finned coils to be comfortable nesting places. Nests
and dead insects can ruin the air conditioner.
Back to Top
|
|
|
Wood Furnaces
|
|
Aside from ash removal, routine maintenance includes air filter replacement
or washing the electronic air cleaner grids, cleaning the humidifier,
and an annual tune up of the oil burner if so equipped. Special
instruments are needed to set the correct air to fuel mixture
on an oil burner, so it is best to let a professional do it.
Back to Top
|
|
Copyright © 1999 Warmair.com, Inc.
Back to Main Page
 Email this page to a friend
|
|
|
